GLOBENGAL
Internet handbook to guide you in the care of your new kitten

You have accepted the responsibility of a new companion and family member.  To help you with this
responsibility, enclosed you will find information that I know will help you in loving, training, caring for, and
understanding your new kitten.
 
The Cat is quite unique!  Their structure, their curiosity, playful personality and clever personality appeals to
many people.  Our Kittens have brought us together with people from all over the world. The Bengal Cat is a
fulfilling and rewarding companion that will entertain and contribute to your family for many, many years to
come.  Please do not hesitate to let me help you.  I am always available to answer questions, support you,
and assist you in any way that I can.      

Table of Contents  

* Your New Kitten is Coming Home  
* Kittens/Cats Feeding & Grooming
* Veterinary Care & Selection
* Shots & General Health  
* Litter Boxes Placement, Litter Type & Cleaning  
* Teaching/Training
* Positive Reinforcement
* Behavior Modification  
* Kittens At Play   
* How should I introduce my new kitten to its new environment?
* How should I introduce my new kitten to my other cat?
* What type of playing should I expect form a kitten?
* Can I discipline a kitten?
* When should my kitten be vaccinated?
* Why does my kitten need more than one vaccination?
* Do all kittens have worms?
* How do I insure that my kitten is well socialized?
* What are ear mites?
* Why should I have my female cat spayed?
* Why should I have my male cat neutered?
* My kitten is already becoming destructive. What can be done?
* Can you recommend something for pet identification?

Your New Cat is Coming Home

1) Kitten Room - We suggest that your kitten have a room of his own for the first several days.  This should
be a place where there is access to food, water, bed, and litter box.  If you desire this room to be your
bedroom this will also work well.  If you are a working family and no one is home during the day, please do
not leave the new kitten with the run of the house while you are gone.  He will be much happier in his own
room until you are home and can be together.  Soon he will be fine with the run of the house but avoid the
temptation the first week or so.

2) Safety Issues - Make a quick run through of the house to make certain your new kittens cannot escape to
the outside world.  Check furnace vents, small openings, etc., to make certain there is no way they can crawl
into small areas and become lost.  Some plants can be harmful to small animals.  Please make sure you have
removed the plants your kitten can reach until you have checked with your veterinarian to make certain your
plants do not fall into this category. If you new kitten in coming to a multiple pet home, please give serious
thought about how you intend to introduce everyone.  Please be patient and remember there is always a
period of adjustment for the old as well as the new pet!

3) Shopping - Necessities: Food, food and water dishes, large kitty litter box, kitty litter, scooper, bottled
spring water(1.29 at the grocery store), scratching posts of some type that perhaps can double as a bed.

4) Fun Stuff - A kazillion toys that your cat will probably not give the time of day.  Bengal are also
entertained and amused with simple household items such as brown paper bags, straws, milk lid rings,
cardboard boxes...just to name a few.

5) Veterinarian - Please schedule an appointment with your Veterinarian for the first or second day of your
kitten coming home (72 hours in the contract).  Before your kitten leaves our home, they will have had their
first few vaccinations listed on vaccination page. You will need an appointment for any final shots needed.

6) Travel Schedules & Telephone Numbers
Most kittens leave our house between 11 to 12 weeks.  If certain events or behaviors show and they need a
little more time at home, we will be arranging new travel schedules with you. Confirm arrangements about
picking up your new kitten with me so everyone is in agreement of days and times. If your new kitten is
flying home, please be certain that you check and double check flight arrangements so we are in agreement of
days, airlines, airports, and flight times.  We need your telephone numbers( day and evening) and want you
to have ours as well.  

The following information will help serve as a guide for your new family companion. I know that
if you have questions you will not hesitate to contact me. (905) 561-1394

Food:
Everyone has an opinion about which is the best food for your cat.  After talking to several breeders and also
from our own experience we feel these foods are superior.  At our house, your kitten has been eating Royal Canin
hard kitten food (PINK BAG).When changing to a different food, please remember to do so slowly and mix the food over a 2 week period, slowly eliminating the old food.  Cats are sometimes touchy and when stressed fail to eat
well.  It is very important that your cat not go for more than 48 hours without eating.  Their metabolism is
quite different from other animals and they can starve quite quickly.  If you experience NO EATING
problems, do what ever it takes to assist your cat in eating: human baby food (Gerber)  lamb/ veal/ chicken/
turkey, canned foods, cooked chicken. Diet is extremely important in the growing months of a kitten's life,
and there are two important criteria that should be met in selecting food for your kitten.  We recommend a
NAME-BRAND FOOD made by a national cat food company (not a generic or local brand), and a form of
food made for kittens.  This should be fed until your kitten is about 12
months of age. Dry food is definitely the most inexpensive.  It can be left in the cat's bowl at all times.  If
given the choice, the average cat will eat a mouthful of food about 12-20 times per day. As a rule, most
veterinarians will recommend dry food for your kitten. Table foods are not recommended, because they are
very tasty, cats will often begin to hold out for these and not eat their well-balanced cat food.  If you choose
to give your kitten table food, be sure that at least 90% of its diet is good quality commercial kitten food.  We
enjoy a variety of things to eat in our diet.  However, most cats actually prefer not to change from one food
to another unless they are trained to do so by the way you feed them.  Do not feel or feed guilty if your
cat is happy to just eat one food keep it that way.  Commercials for cat food can be very misleading.  If you
watch carefully you will notice that commercials promote cat food on one basis:  TASTE.  Nutrition is rarely
mentioned.  Most of the "gourmet" foods are marketed to appeal to owners who want the best for their cats;
however, they do not offer the cat any nutritional advantage over a good quality dry food, and they are far
more expensive.  If your cat eats a gourmet food very long, it will probably not be happy with other foods.  
If it needs a special diet due to a health problem later in life, it is very unlikely to accept it.  Therefore, we do
not encourage feeding gourmet cat foods.    

Water:
We feel it is important to use bottle water.  Water varies from city to city and can cause stomach upset and
often loose stools due to Giardia or Cocci levels in the water.  Cats like to drink (as well as play in) a good
amount of water.  To minimize problems and reduce stress, please use bottled water always.   

Treats:  
Catnip certainly is a favorite at our place. Try to avoid sharing food items with your kitten around your
cooking counter or your dining room table unless you welcome the company on a full time basis.

Grooming:
Most cats are very low maintenance creatures. They require no routine brushing, however  they do remember
that petting and brushing are a form of social communication between you and your pet and will certainly
strengthen you relationship.

Claws & Scratching:
We work with our cats to teach them what is and is not appropriate when it comes to the use of their claws.  
Kittens do learn by example and our mother cats play a great role in teaching them how to use their
scratching posts.  Cats do need a post of some type, other wise the carpet and your furniture will become
their first choice.  We recommend the use of a post covered with sisal rope.  Sisal rope is the key, the cats
love the feel of it on their claws and paws! Try ebay under cat furniture you can get a bran new large cat tree
for around $100. total with shipping where as at the local pet stores they can run up to $300. Our kittens
climb and scratch on these cat trees starting when they're quite little.  
      Can I trim my kitten's sharp toenails?

Kittens have very sharp toenails.  They can be trimmed with your regular fingernail clippers or with nail
trimmers made for dogs and cats.  If you take too much off the nail, you will get into the quick;  bleeding and
pain will occur.  If this happens, neither you nor your cat will want to do this again.  Therefore, a few points
are helpful:  
1)  If your cat has clear or white nails, you can see the pink of the quick through the nail.  Avoid the pink
area, and you should be out of the quick.  
2)  When cutting nails, use sharp trimmers.  Dull trimmers tend to crush the nail and cause pain even if you
are not in the quick.    
3)  You should always have styptic powder available.  This is sold in pet stores under several trade names,
but it will be labeled for use in trimming nails.
More extreme behavior what can be done?
There are four options that you should consider: frequent nail clipping, nail shields, surgical de-clawing, and
tendonectomy. We feel de-clawing is a choice each owner must make for themselves. WE DON'T DE-CLAW!!!
1) Nail trimming: The nails may be clipped according to the instructions above.  However, your cat's nails
will regrow and become sharp again in about 4-7 days.  
2) Caps: There are some commercially available products that are called Soft Paws They are made of smooth
plastic and attach to the end of the nail with a special glue.  The nails are still present, but the caps prevent
them from causing destruction.  After 2-4 weeks the nails will grow enough that the caps will be shed.  At
that time, you should be prepared to replace them.  
3) Surgical de-clawing: is the removal of the nail and the first joint of the toe.  This is done under general
anesthesia; there is a lot of post-surgical discomfort, especially when it is performed on a kitten.  It can be
done the same time as spaying or neutering.  Once de-clawed, your cat should always live indoors since the
ability to defend itself is compromised.  
4) Tendonectomy: is the surgical removal of a small part of the tendon on the bottom of each toe.  This
tendon is needed to make the nail extend.  The cat retains its nails, but it cannot extend them for sharpening
and scratching.  The only disadvantage of this procedure is that the nails continue to grow and may grow
into the pads.  Therefore, the nails should be clipped every 7 to 14 days.  

Veterinary Care & Selection:
Unless you live in a very small city, you should have numerous choices when it comes to selecting a
Veterinarian to care for your kitten.  Try to find a Vet that really knows the Bengal breed, not all do, and one
that has had experience in working with exotic animals is best.  Many Vets have clients with exotic cats so it
is getting easier  to find one that understands our breeds needs and sensitivities. Do not be shy when asking
Veterinarians about their experiences and qualifications when it comes to dealing with kitten.  Your shot
schedule is already in your folder so we will only repeat our strong desire that you vaccinate your cat with
killed virus shots only.  3 WAY KILLED VACCINES ONLY FOR BENGALS!!! Check with your future vet & make sure they order special vaccines a head of time for you!!!

Litter Boxes:
Placement, Litter Type & Cleaning Your new kitten will be 100% litter boxed trained before he is allowed to
come home with you ( between 11 -12 weeks of age).  Please remember that kittens can become easily
confused when adjusting to their new home, different smells, and new family members.  Kittens and cats are
very structured in their habits and we must all try and make their adjustment to their new home an easy one.
1) Placement:   Litter box placement is an important decision ( for everyone's future happiness!)  and one
that you can make before you bring your kitten home.  Continual development of good litter box habits is a
must.  The less your box is moved around the less potential there will be for accidents.  Please try and pick a
smaller, easy to find room (main floor bathroom, laundry room, spare room, etc.) for your litter box.  Many
people desire to place their litter box in the basement which will work fine when your kitten is older and
certain of his way around you house.  When your kitten arrives, place your litter box in the same room where
your kitten has his food and water and where he will be spending a certain amount of his unattended time.  
Sometimes during their first few days in a new home, kittens that have moved in to larger homes can become
preoccupied with playing, snooping, exploring, and can forget how to find the litter box.  We know he will
eventually have the run of the house and join you as a full time family companion.  Try and resist this for the
first week until you are certain that the kitten can find his litter box at all times.  Kittens are very social
companions and if you desire you new kitten to sleep in you bedroom, please make certain you have a
second litter box close by. Most kittens while on your bed will think this is their litter box as the feeling of the
blankets under foot is like the sand under their little feet while going potty so use restraint when letting them
on the bed when they are still really little.
2) Litter Types: There are numerous types of litter that work quite well. I find it's up to new owners what suits there kitty & household the best:- )
Remember cats are clean animals and they really do like a clean box:- )
3) Cleaning: Maintenance of a clean litter now day is quite an easy and fast chore.  With you plastic scooper
& bags you can easily minimize odors and daily dispose of waste matter.  Please purchase an extra large litter
box.  Cats have to dig and if your desire is to keep the litter in the box... get a cover box with a flap. Two
cats can share one extra large box with no problem.  Daily litter box cleaning minimizes any odor and will
keep your cat happy.  

Teaching and Training Your Cat Positive Reinforcement:
Cats are very intelligent, inquisitive, and can be easily motivated by the use of positive reinforcement.  
Positive reinforcement can be affection, praise, as well as various types of food rewards.  You can teach your
cat various names, to come when they are called,  to jump, stand on their hind legs, sit, lay down, with
patience and rewards. For a food reward we recommend the use of Gerber's Chicken baby food ( this is the
only baby food that does not contain onion salt/powder which is harmful to all cats.)  Repetition and
consistency are the key to successful training.  Use your imagination and enjoy this learning time.

Behavior Modification: Given a cats abilities, desire to climb, and their innate curiosity, your kitten may
exhibit behavior you find objectionable: jumping up on the kitchen counter or dining room table, nosing
around antiques and the mantle, sharpening claws on the furniture or carpet, or scratching outside through
an open door. These actions may necessitate some type of discipline.  Never use your hands to stop negative
behaviors.  Your hands should be a symbol of affection to your cat and not an object to fear or fight with. We
recommend the use of water in a spray bottle. Though some cats like water they dislike being sprayed.  
When a cat is sprayed with water they immediately stop whatever they are doing and leave the area where
the behavior has occurred.  The spray must be applied while  caught in the act and not before or after.  An
empty soda can also is very effective, place a few small rocks or marbles in the can and tape up the top shake
the can very loud when your kitten is in the middle of their disruptive behavior. Cats are creatures of habit
and you will find very little time will be needed to teach them the rules of your household.  

Cats At Play:
You now own one of the most playful, clever, energetic, and entertaining cats around.  They enjoy
demonstrating their energy and physical abilities.  Cats love to role playing, stalking, pursuing, running,
climbing, and jumping which are all natural genetic traits that your cat will show you as they are very, very
intelligent.  They learn quickly and as you introduce them into your family, please remember that how you
play with them as tiny kittens will be remembered and they will expect to do the same as adults!  We do not
play with our kittens using our hands, fingers, or toes.  If you place your kitten on his back and gently roll
him from side to side,  please know that he will respond by embracing your hand with his claws....kicking or
biting.  Your kitten will continue this behavior with you regardless of his age.  What looks cute as a kitten
can become quite uncomfortable as your baby grows into an adult Cat. Remember if your saying ouch when
their kittens just think what it will be like when they weigh 25 lbs. Do not ever underestimate the power and
strength of a Bengal cat! Playtime is a very important bonding time for you and your new baby.  Your hands
should always be looked at as symbols of affection and not objects to chase and bite.  There are so many
great toys available to you try one with a stick.

Swimming... Jumping... Climbing... Fishing... Fetching:
You will notice that your kitten loves to jump and climb!  They will always find that high spot in your
house.  Carpeted climbing and scratching post are such a treat and really are not that hard to make and are
everywhere in pet stores.  Our cats always seem to have a desire to find water so don't be alarmed if they
join you in the shower or the tub.  I have had many occasions where I have shared my baths/shower with
furry spotted creatures. Cats just seem to love that simple stuff; paper bags, cardboard on a string, or
anything with feathers.    Playing is an important part of your cats life.  Not only are they doing what comes
naturally but this daily exercise is vital for a healthy, happy, adult Cat.  

How should I introduce my new kitten to its new environment?
A cat is naturally inclined to investigate its new surroundings.  It is suggested that the cat's area of
exploration be limited initially so that these natural tendencies do not create an unmanageable task.  After
confining the cat to one room for the first week, you should slowly allow access to other areas of the home.  

How should I introduce my new kitten to my other cat?
Most kittens receive a hostile reception from other household pets, especially from another cat.  The other cat
usually see no need for a kitten in the household, and these feelings are reinforced if it perceives that special
favoritism is being shown the kitten.  The existing cat must not feel that it is necessary to compete for food or
for attention.  The new kitten should have its own food and food bowl, and it should not be permitted to eat
from the other cat's bowl.  Although it is natural to spend time holding and cuddling the kitten, the existing
cat will quickly sense that it is being neglected.  The new kitten needs lots of love and attention, but the
existing cat should not be slighted.  In fact, the transition will be smoother if the existing cat is given more
attention than normal.  The introduction period will usually last one to two weeks and will have one of three
possible outcomes.   
1) The existing cat will remain hostile to the kitten.  Fighting may occur occasionally, especially if both try to
eat out of the same bowl at the same time.  This is an unlikely occurrence if competition for food and
affection are minimized during the first few weeks.
2) The existing cat will only tolerate the kitten.  Hostility will cease, but the existing cat will act as if the kitten
is not present.  This is more likely if the existing cat is very independent, has been an only cat for several
years, or if marked competition occurred during the first few weeks.  This relationship is likely to be
permanent.  
3) Bonding will occur between the existing cat and the kitten.  They will play together, groom each other, and
sleep near each other.  This is more likely to occur if competition is minimized and if the existing cat has been
lonely for companionship.

What type of playing should I expect from a kitten?
Stimulating play is important during the first week.  Stalking and pouncing are important play behaviors in
kittens and have an important role in proper muscular development.  If given a sufficient outlet for these
behaviors with toys, your kitten will be less likely to use family members for these activities.  The best toys
are lightweight and movable.  These include wads of paper, small balls, and string or ribbon on a stick.  
Kittens should always be supervised when playing with string or ribbons to avoid swallowing them.  Any
other toy that is small enough to be swallowed should also be avoided.    

Can I discipline a kitten?
Disciplining a young kitten may be necessary if its behavior threatens people or property, but harsh
punishment should be avoided.  Hand clapping and using shaker cans or horns can be intimidating enough
to inhibit undesirable behavior.  However, remote punishment is preferred.  Remote punishment consists of
using something that appears unconnected to the punisher to stop the problem behavior.  Examples include
using spray bottles, throwing objects in the direction of the kitten to startle (but not hit) it, and making loud
noises.  Remote punishment is preferred because the kitten associates punishment with the undesirable act
and not with you.  

When should my kitten be vaccinated?
There are many diseases that are fatal to cats.  Fortunately, we have the ability to prevent many of these by
the use of very effective vaccines.  In order to be effective, these vaccines must be given as a series of
injections.  Ideally, they are given at about 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, but this schedule may vary somewhat
depending on several factors.    The routine vaccination schedule will protect your kitten from five diseases:  
distemper, three respiratory organisms, and rabies.  The first four are included in a combination vaccine that
is given at 8, 12, and 16 weeks old.  Rabies vaccine is given at 12 weeks of age.  Leukemia vaccine is
appropriate for any cat but a necessity if your cat does or will go outside or if you have another cat that goes
in and out.  This deadly disease is transmitted by contact with other cats, especially when fighting occurs.  

Why does my kitten need more than one vaccination?
When the kitten nurses its mother, it receives a temporary form of immunity through its mother's milk.  This
immunity is in the form of proteins called antibodies.  For about 72 hours after birth, the kitten's intestine
allows absorption of these antibodies directly into the blood stream.  This immunity is of benefit during the
first few weeks of the kitten's life, but, at some point, this immunity fails and the kitten must be able to make
its own long-lasting immunity.  Vaccinations are used for this purpose.  As long as the mother's antibodies
are present, vaccinations do not work.  The mother's antibodies will neutralize the vaccine so the vaccine does
not get a chance to stimulate the kitten's immune system.  Many factors determine when the kitten will be
able to respond to the vaccines.  These include the level of immunity in the mother cat, how much of the
antibody has been absorbed, and the number of vaccines given the kitten.  Since we do not know when an
individual kitten will lose the short-term immunity, we give a series of vaccinations.  We hope that at least
two of these will fall in the window of time when the kitten has lost the immunity from its mother but has
not yet been exposed to disease.  A single vaccination, even if effective, is not likely to stimulate the long-
term immunity which is so important.    Rabies vaccine is an exception to this, since one injection given at
the proper time is enough to produce long-term immunity.  

Do all kittens have internal parasites?
Intestinal parasites are common in kittens.  Kittens are born infected with parasites for example,
the most important source of roundworm infection in kittens is the mother's milk.  The microscopic
examination of a stool sample will usually help us to determine the presence of intestinal parasites.  
We exam all our kittens stool samples.   Panicure or another wormer is given at 3 weeks
of age and repeated in about 3-4 weeks, because the de-worming medication only kills the adult worms.  
Within 3-4 weeks the larval stages will have become adults and will need to be treated.  Cats remain
susceptible to reinfection with hookworms and roundworms.  Periodic de-worming throughout the cat's life
may be recommended for cats that go outdoors.  Tapeworms are the most common intestinal parasite of cats.
We have our Vet examine a combined stool sample in his office once a week for a month to make sure
Globengal doesn't have any parasites.

How do I insure that my kitten is well socialized?
The Socialization Period for cats is between 2 and 16 weeks of age.  During that time, the kitten is very
impressionable to social influences.  If it has good experiences with men, women, children, dogs, and other
cats it is likely to accept them throughout life.  If the experiences are absent or unpleasant, it may become
apprehensive or adverse to any of them.  Therefore, during the period of socialization, we encourage you to
expose your cat to as many types of social events and influences as possible.

What are ear mites?
Ear mites are tiny insect-like parasites that live in the ear canal of cats (and dogs).  The most common sign of
ear mite infection is scratching of the ears.  Sometimes the ears will appear dirty because of a black material
in the ear canal; this material is sometimes shaken out. Transmission generally requires direct ear-to-ear
contact.  

Why should I have my female cat spayed?
Spaying offers several advantages.  The female's heat periods result in about 2-3 weeks of obnoxious
behavior.  This can be quite annoying if your cat is kept indoors.  Male cats are attracted from blocks away
and, in fact, seem to come out of the woodwork.  They seem to go over, around, and through many doors.  
Your cat will have a heat period about every 2-3 weeks until she is bred. Spaying is the removal of the uterus
and the ovaries.  Therefore, heat periods no longer occur.  In many cases, despite your best efforts, the
female will become pregnant; spaying prevents unplanned litters of kittens.  We do not recommend breeding
after 3 years of age unless she hasn't been bred prior to that and only if the kitten was adopted with breeding
rights.   It has been proven that as the female cat gets older, there is a significant incidence of breast cancer
and uterine infections if she has not been spayed.  Spaying before she has any heat cycles will virtually
eliminate the chances of either.  There is mounting evidence to believe that this is also true of cats.  If you do
not plan to breed your cat, she must be spayed before her first heat cycle, this needs to be done when she is
six months old.    

Why should I have my male cat neutered?
Neutering offers several advantages.  Male cats go through a significant personality change when they
mature.  They become very possessive of their territory and mark it with their urine to ward off other cats.  
The tom cat's urine develops a very strong odor that will be almost impossible to remove from your house.  
They also try to constantly enlarge their territory which means one fight after another.  Fighting results in
severe infections and abscesses and often engenders rage in your neighbors.  We strongly urge you to have
your cat neutered at six months of age.  If he should begin to spray his urine before that time, he should be
neutered immediately.   The longer he sprays or fights, the less likely neutering is to stop it.    

Can you recommend something for pet identification?
The latest in pet retrieval is micro chipping.  This tiny device is implanted with a needle so the process is
much like getting an injection.  Scanners can detect these chips; humane societies and animal shelters across
the country also have scanners.  A national registry permits the return of micro chipped pets throughout the
United States and Canada.  We recommend it.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST NO STRINGS!!! I have seen many cats try to eat them & that is real bad! It can mean major surgery to remove any string from inside cats intestines: ( It can be life threatening for any cat or any animal for that matter.

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